The Bhati Gate is located within Walled City of Lahore in Lahore, Punjab, Pakistan. Bhati Gate entrance is located on the Western wall of the Old City. It is one of the two oldest entry points into the Walled City which controlled the only major north-south thoroughfare during Ghaznavid period. When the Emperor Akbar expanded the city eastward and divided it into nine districts or Guzars, Bhati Gate and its bazaar marked the boundary between Guzar Mubarak Khan (east) and Guzar Talwarra (west). It was called Bhati Gate because it opens in the direction of Sandal Bar named after Rai Sandal Khan a Bhatti Rajput who lived there in ancient times. The area inside the gate is well known throughout the city for its food. Just outside of Bhati Gate is Data Durbar, the mausoleum of the Sufi saint Ali Hajweri (also known as Data Sahib Ganjbaksh). Every Thursday evening musicians used to gather here to perform Qawwali music, but these days qawalies have been replaced with Naats and religious sermons.
Also Bhati Gate has its own history in politics of Pakistan. In early 1990 ex prime minister of Pakistan Mian Muhammad Nawaz Sharief and his brother Mian Muhammad Shahbaz Sharief (chief minister of Punjab) brought into Bhati Gate by Zia-Ud-Din Thakedar and his brother ex-member anti corruption Punjab (government of Punjab) Zahoor Hassan who was president of Punjab copy book binding and ruling workers association (R) Punjab and they arranged first meeting of Mian Shahbaz Sharief in Bhati Gate and opened first office of Pakistan Muslim League (N) in Bhati Gate because Bhati Gate was very strong constituency of (PPP) and was undefeatable by any political party in Pakistan but somehow Zia-Ud-Din Thakedar and his brother Zahoor Hassan convinced ex-councilor ch. Muhammad Nawaz (Shaheed) and his companion Zulfiqar Ali, Shuaib-Ul-Hassan, Waheed Ahmed, Haji Fazil, Malik Billu, and many others to join Pakistan Muslim League (N) and then Bhati Gate became a very strong constituency of Mian Muhammad Shahbaz Sharief (chief minister Punjab) since that time Bhati Gate is un- defeatable constituency for any political party in Pakistan.
Later on ex-councilor ch. Muhammad Nawaz (Shaheed) was killed in 1995 by drug mafia then his brother ex councilor ch Muhammad Iftikhar Pasha became a politician and participated in election 1998 but that time was very difficult for ch. Muhammad Nawaz (Shaheed) family to win in local body's election because all those friends of ch. Muhammad Nawaz (Shaheed) turned up against his brother in election although that was a very strong constituency of ch Muhammad Nawaz (Shaheed) and he was unbeatable in Bhati Gate since 1983 till his death but his brother ch Muhammad Iftikhar Pasha was struggling with that and then once again Zia-Ud-Din Thakedar and his brother Zahoor Hassan played them rule in politics and supported him in election and managed 2 defeated his rival in election and also this is true that was very difficult and cruical time for ch. Muhammad Nawaz (Shaheed) family to stay in politics and continuing them in politics but that was impossible for ch Muhammad Nawaz (Shaheed) family to get without support of Zia Thakedar and his brother Zahoor Hassan then in 2001 Zia-Ud-Din Thakedar died then his brother Zahoor Hassan took over all the responsibility and played his rule in politics and then his son Asim Zahoor started his career in politics and as a social worker in Bhati Gate and stood up with ch Muhammad Iftikhar Pasha against his brother enemies and political enemies and playing his rule in Bhati Gate politics with ch Muhammad iftikhar pasha and now they are fighting back with ch Muhammad Nawaz (Shaheed) enemies but after all this still his family is suffering. This gateway is traditionally attributed to the settlement of a clan known as ‘Bhatti Rajput’ who were made to settle inside this gate after Muslim occupation of the city by Mahmood Ghazanvi. They, in fact, came during the period of Governorship of Malik Ayyaz. They had only agreed to reside on the condition that the gateway will be known by name of their tribe and hence it came to be known as ‘Bhati Gate’. Like the city walls it was destroyed and damaged and was built during the British period. Bhati Gate is very busy chowk as out-side, on the Circular Road, the Ravi Road Lower mall, Mohni Road, and the road coming from Bilal Ganj and Lohari all converge here. It is all along lively and awake till late in the night. There used to be theatres, cinemas and other local street shows and small entertainment. Its close proximity to the shrine of hazart Data Ganj Bakhsh has created a great hustle and bustle all the day especially of those visiting Data Sahib. The Chowk is full of eatables, hotels, soft drink stands, and shops of Kababa and fish sellers, fruit vendors, and milk and lassi shops. This is the center of transport pliers and one can get buses and wagons in all directions. The garden immediately on the left of Bhati Gate and facing Data Darbar used to be the beautiful place but it has been badly spoiled by Lahore Municipal Corporation by putting up “Khokhas” and small shops and rented out for money. Consequently it has badly effected hygiene of the locality. The old ditch around at the city wall has taken the shape of open drain. It is the biggest hazard to the city dwellers. Immediately in front of Bhati Gate on road side a Tonga Stand, on the left a tubewell, wrestling club, some fruit vendors and just around the Gate a Police Station on the entry. Entering the Bhati Bazaar one finds grocery stores, vegetable shops, Kabab shops and kitchenware and plastic stores etc. The bazaar is narrow and it is really very difficult in the morning and after-noon to cross without rubbing shoulders. The general cleanliness is in a poor shape, drains are open and smelly. The living conditions of the people continues in a manner as they used to live centuries back. Their typical Punjabi dialect, noise of the vendors and rush of the children and ladies in the bazaar takes one to a totally different world, as compared with the life in recently developed colonies in the city suburbs. A few paces in the Bazar, one finds on finds on right Kucha Patrangan. About 80 years from now Maulvi Asghar Ali Roohi, the teacher of Maulvi Muhammad Shafi, used to live in a house is this kucha. He was a fountainhead of learning and scholarship, and known far and wide for his ‘dars’ of Holy Quran. He had later started giving ‘dars’ in Gumti Bazar also. Dr. Maulvi Muhammad Shafi who was later principal of the Oriental College, also used to live near at the Kucha during his days as a studentA little ahead of Kucha Patrangan is “Nayan di Gali” the ‘Barber’s street. At the end of this gali there used to be a house where Shaikh Gulab Din, an Advocate used to live. Shaikh Gulab Din belonged to Sialkot and had such command of urdu that he had translated the laws of evidence and common usage. Next to Nayan di Gali, to the right, is Mohallah Jalotian across which was the house where Dr. Muhammad Iqbal lived for several years. Adjacent to this was the Cho-Mohallah, where the Khatib of Unchi Masjid Maulvi Imamuddin lived. From Cho-Mohallah, one could go to Noor Mohallah to the left of the bazaar and to Mohallah shish Mahal on the right.
In Mohallah Shish Mahal lived Dr. Muhammad Hussain who had come to Lahore after the war of 1857. he and Dr. Rahim Khan, whose mansion was situated on Dhani ram Road, adjacent to Traders bank near Anarkali, was considered the most competent doctors of the day. Dr. Muhammad Hussain was the honorary Physician and Dr. Rahim Khan was Honorary Surgeon to the Viceroy. From Shish Mahal onwards, you can go to Rai Bahadur Mela Ram’s Haveli of which nothing now remains. It was one of the splendors inside Bhati Gate. The Rai Bahadur and his son Rai Bahadur Ram Saran Dass, were followers of the “Sanatam Dharm” and were widely respected. The son, was a great patron of poets and writers in 1880, when Lahore was linked with Amritsar by rail, the Lahore Railway Station was built by Mian sultan of landa Bazar, Mian Muhammad Bakhsh Dol Gar of Mochi Gate and Rai Bahadur Mela Ram, were noted contractors of those days. Rai Bahadur Mela Ram and Rai Bahadur Ram Saran Dass used to celebrate every Hindu, Sikh or Muslim festival with great ceremony. Every Sunday there used to be a musical soiree at Rai Bahadur Ram saran Dass’s bungalow outside Bhati Gate, according 5to one account. Invitees belonged to all creeds; prominent among the participants were Allama Iqbal, Sir Abdul Qadir, Sir Shahabud Din., Mian Sirajud din, Raja narindranath, Raja Sir Days Kishan kaul, Nawab Liaqat Hayat Khan, Nawab Ahmed Yar Khan Daultana, Sikandar Hayat Khan, Mian Muhammad Nasirud Din, Khan Bahadur Suyed Maratab Ali Sardar Sundar Singh Majitjia and Sardar Joginder Singh. In other Kucha, Moti Tibba, used to live Sir Abdul Qadir. It is a fact that Lahore’s Bazar Hakiman and Amritsar’s Kattra Hakiman owned their importance to Hakim Hissamud Din, who used to practise at both places. He was the personal Hakim to the Maharajas of Kashmir and the Phulkian States. His uncanny diagnostic ability had spread his fame far and wide. Apart from this he was an upright man of God and people were as keen to seek his blessings as his medicines. A little ahead of Hakim Shujaud Din’s house was the residence of Faqir Syed Iftikharud Din. Since he was a distinguished member of the Faqir Khana and held an important position in government, his house usually saw gathering of Government officials. A special feature of these gatherings is reputed to have been complete admixture of Iftikharud din’s Muslim Hindu friends. These include lala harkishan lal, dyal Singh Majithia, Ch. Ahmad (father of Faiz Ahmad Faiz), Mirza sultan of Tibbi, Naseerud Din nephew of Nawab Imamud din. Syed Iqbal ali shah and Syed Maratab Ali Shah, lived in this bazaar. Moving further ahead, we would come to the Kucha of Astana Sharif where the lal Masjid built by faqir syed Jamalud Din is located. Next is a small graveyard, which has the mazaar of Faqir Syed Ghulam Mohyud Din. Opposite this kucha is the mosque built buy Hakim Abdullah Ansari, who was founder of Bazar-e-Hakiman.
On the left of the bazaar is kucha Fakir Khana where Faqir Syed Zafarud Din used to live and there be also the house where Mir Nazir Hussain Nazim lived all his life. A few paces from this is the house of Faqir Syed Hasanud Din and his ‘imambara.’ Syed Ali shah lived here: his fame as an artist needs no recounting, and despite the fact that he never adopted painting as his profession, the leading artists would come to learn the art of painting from him form Bhati Gate up to Tehsil. Then we come to kucha Tehsil where the Tehsildar of Lahore used to hold his court. Maulana Muhammad Hussain Azad also lived in this kucha for a long time. There is a bazaar here which used to be called ‘Seemyon ka Bazar’ but is now known as Judge Bazar, it was here that Sir Shahabud Din’s house and press was located and the house of Syed Mohammd latif, author of the history of Lahore. Where Tibbi ends, on left is Bazar Shaikhupurian. In a corner of this bazaar is a house in which Muharam Ali Chishti used to live, who was the editor of ‘Rafiq-I-Hind’ and was known as a ‘King Maker’. He often used to arrange ‘Qawwali’ sessions and was known for his hospitality. There was an old haveli close to his house where Mirza Abdur rahim lived, whose eldest son Mriza Muhammad Said was author of ‘Khawab-e-Hasti’ and ‘Yasmeen’. In Tehsil Bazar, a little ahead of Daan Gali, there is another kucha called Bhahron Ki tharrian where three brothers Khwaja Nabi Bakhsh, Khwaja Karim Bakhsh and Khwaja Amir Bakhsh lived. The brothers were, the life and soul of the gatherings that were held at at the baithak of Hakik Shahbazs Din every evening. Their fearless criticism and their knack for discovering a person of true worth played an active role in shaping the career of many yound poets and writers. Iqbal never used to recite his verse in public till he had shown it to the three brothers. ‘Nala-e-Yateem’. Hilal-e-Eid’ ‘Tasver-e-Dard’ and ‘Sham-o-Sahir’ were all poems, which iqbal had first shown to the three elders before reciting them in the annual sessions of the Anjaman-e-Hamayat-e-Islam. Khwaja Ferozeud Din, Barrister, who was iqbal’s brother in –law, was Kh. Rahim Bakhsh’s son, and Kh. Abdul Majid, author of the voluminous Jaameul Laghat, was Kh. Karim Bakhsh’s son. In front of Mashriqi dawakhana, established by Hakim faqir Muhammad at Hira Mandi’s junction with Barood Khana and Chowk Sarjan Singh, there was a well which was famour throughout the city for its cool water. On the edge used to sit Rai Bahadur Sanjhi Mal, bare-bodied and wearing only a dhoti, dispensing water from the well to every thirsty wayfarer. The Rai Bahadur was among the first group of graduates from the Punjab University and had joined the Provincial Civil Service. After his retirement, he had given up all wordily pleasures and spent the rest of his life in serving the needy tell old Lahoris. Due to hustle bustle in the Bhati Chowk and surrounding areas some writers call it ‘chelsea of Lahore”. If Lahore’s Mochi Gate is the city’s heart, then Bhaati Gate is the city’s brain. According to Hakim Ahmed Shuja who named it the Chelsea of Lahore, at one time, Bhaati Gate was where the city’s poets and writers were to be found. Allama Iqbal lived in Bhaati Gate and it was from there that Sir Abdul Qadir started the publication of his trail-blazing literary magazine Makhzan. Agha Hashr also lived here and so did Faqir Syed Azizuddin and Faqir Syed Nooruddin, the latter an accomplished Persian poet. Maulvi Ahmed Din was a resident of Bhaati Gate’s Waan-wali Galli. He wrote with great flair, his style based on that of his teacher Muhammad Hussain Azad. Not far from Waan-wali Galli, in a back street lived three brothers: Khawaja Rahim Bux, Khawaja Karim Bux and Khawaja Amir Bux, known to one and all as the Khawaja Brothers. So impeccable was their literary taste that Iqbal is said to have used them as a touchstone and never read anything in public till he had first bounced it off the Khawaja Brothers.
The writer Tahir Lahori also lived in Bhaati Gate. He once said that every one of Lahore’s gates had its own history and cultural identity, but the Bhaati Gate held a place all its own. No other Gate is as famous as Bhaati. Along Bhaati’s periphery was a lovely park (now much ravaged), which was always well tended and peaceful. A small road used to run not far from the canal that bubbled through the park. Today, very little remains of that road but you can still see where it once was. Mulsari trees stood on both sides of this road and roses and jasmine bloomed along its sides, their fragrance always hanging heavy in the air. In the morning, devotees of Data Sahib, Lahore’s great saint, would walk through the park, rosaries in hand, on their way to the tomb to pray and ask for his blessings.
One can’t even begin to count the number of artists, writers, poets, actors, musicians and sportsmen who were born in Bhaati Gate and who made their name in the world. This is where Lahore’s movie industry took birth. Mian Abdul Rashid Kardar, a resident of Bhaati Gate, it was who made the first silent movie in Lahore and rose to great fame and fortune as one of the most successful filmmakers of India. The great character actors M. Ismail and M. Ajmal, who starred in several of the silent movies made in Lahore, going on to gain fame and following when silent movies made way for talkies, both belonged to Bhaati Gate. It was Kardar who picked up a young man who worked in a Bhaati Gate goldsmith’s shop, took him to Bombay, when he moved there and turned him into a great actor. His name was Hira Lal, still remembered as a credible movie villain. He even played the lead in some movies.
Kardar’s friend and his long-time assistant M. Sadiq was also from Bhaati Gate. He later branched out on his own, becoming one of the most successful of India’s movie directors. Kardar created many stars. Gul Hamid, a handsome young man from Peshawar, became an all-India celebrity when Kardar cast him in his hit movie Baghi Sipahi. It is said that the movie industry never again saw an actor with Gul Hamid’s looks. Kardar also produced and directed such great hits as Baghban, Milap and after independence, Dulari. But before the division of India, another of his hits was Mirza Sahiban, starring Zahur Raja. It was a Punjabi movie and in my view one of the first quality movies made in that language. I remember beautifully sung snatches of the epic on which the love story was based. Zahur Raja, I should add, also lived in Bhaati Gate. I got to know him after Pakistan when I was working for Anwar Kamal Pasha’s film unit. The famous poet and lyricist Tanvir Naqvi also came from Bhaati Gate. Another actor Ismail Godar, who started out in theatre and used to play the jinn in horror movies, was also a Bhaati Gate product.
Some of the greatest sportsmen came from Bhaati Gate and its adjoining streets. Most of the famous kabbadi players of those days were from Bhaati. The great wrestlers of those, indeed all, times, men such as Rustam-e-Zaman Gama Pehelwan and Rustam-e-Hind Imam Bux, were from Bhaati Gate and lived close to Maidan Bhaatiaan in Phullan-wali Galli. Where Mohni Road runs today, there was nothing once but green fields and water wells. When residential housing came to Mohni Road, the great wrestlers of Bhaati Gate made it their home. Another great wrestler of the times was Muhammad Shafi Pehelwan, a “shagird” of Rustam-e-Zaman Gama Pehelwan. It is said that when Shafi Pehelwan was invited by a Hindu princely state to wrestle a court-favoured challenger, the people of Bhaati Gate held special prayers for his victory. The Raja’s wrestler was no match to Shafi, so some of the Raja’s men offered him a fat sum of money to wrestle for a draw. When Shafi’s supporters found out what had happened, they surrounded his house, pelting him with accusations of having let them down. Finally, in exasperation he told them, “It was a Hindu state where I went to make some money, not to cause a Hindu-Muslim riot.”
The great Skipper Abdul Hafiz Kardar, Pakistan’s celebrated cricket captain, a cousin of Abdul Rashid Kardar, also belonged to Bhaati Gate. He is one of the few cricketers to have played for more than one country. He was a member of the last team from undivided India to tour England in 1946. Of the great singers, Muhammad Rafi and Ali Bux Zahoor also came from Bhaati. The music composer Khawaja Khurshid Anwar was another Bhaati Gate man, as was the famous writer, Mirza Adeeb. In 1948-49 I used to visit a friend who lived in one of the cul de sac streets of Bhaati Gate. A regular companion of ours was a failed stage actor, who used to declaim entire passages from Agha Hashr’s dramas for us. He also considered himself the best-read among us, although I was more conversant with English and English literature than the entire group put together. I remember the release at Plaza Cinema of the movie Jane Eyre, starring Orsan Wells. Our actor friend’s review of the movie I can never forget. According to him Jane Eyre was a love story like Heer Ranjha, Laila Majnu and Sohni Mahniwal. “But the director is a fool, he has failed to film the most effective scene from the novel,” he announced.
When we asked how, he declared, throwing out both arms, “When Jane is trapped inside a burning house, her lover Eyre comes running, calling her name. ‘Jane, Jane, my love where are you?’ Jane, who is already half consumed by the flames, replies, ‘Eyre, Eyre, here I am my love.’” Of course, there is no such scene in the novel but the intensity with which our friend played it out was so effective that many of us were overcome.